Beach No. 7, on the west side of Havelock Island, is stunning. Really. Like, our first glimpse of it stunned us into silence for a while. OK, maybe a few whispered "Wow"s got out.
I hate to mention mathematics when I'm talking about paradise on earth, but I read an article about a German guy who came up with a formula for quantifying and ranking the best beaches in the world. Factors such as the whiteness of the sand, the water temperature, the slope of the beach, the color of the water, etc., were given numeric ranks and then used to calculate a value. This beach was on the top of his list.
It's a long, wide, slightly curving beach bordered by jungle and tall coconut palms, providing just the right amount of shade and plenty of prime hammock-hanging spots. The sand is clean and golden-white and dotted with pretty shells--many inhabited by hermit crabs. The sea is turquoise and incredibly clear and feels like bathwater. The waves are gentle. And sometimes elephants go strolling by!
We spent a week on this fantasy island. We stayed at the Pristine Beach Resort, on the east side of the island, in a cute bamboo hut with an ocean view that cost us about $6 a night. (There's no lodging right at Beach No. 7 because it's a protected area.) We swam, napped in hammocks, read, snorkeled in Finding Nemo land, and ate fish every day. (Don't worry, we didn't eat Nemo.) I even got to fulfill a childhood fantasy: a ride on an elephant. I'd been given the opportunity once before, at about age 4, at the Ringling Bros. Circus, but I backed out when I discovered a clown would be involved. I still hate clowns...
The Andaman Islands are relatively undiscovered, as far as tourism goes. Only a handful are inhabited, and even fewer have services for tourists. Accommodations, with a few exceptions, are simple. And the result is unspoiled beaches, an abundance of snorkeling and diving opportunities, low prices, and a gentle atmosphere. However, this may be changing soon. There are plans to introduce the first international flight to the islands, from Bangkok, Thailand, which will create a booming source of new visitors. On the ferry to Havelock Island, from Port Blair, where the airport is located, David and I met a pair of Indian businessmen who have plans to open an ultra-exclusive resort on one of the islands. They wanted to attract "the Brad Pitts and Jennifer Anistons of the world" and hope to charge $600 to $800 a night!
David and I are in Delhi now, and the noise, dust and air pollution have been a major shock to my system. I would've been happy to spend our remaining weeks swimming, hammock swinging and eating mangoes at No. 7. I hope we can make it back again before all the Brad Pitts and Jennifer Anistons get there.

Hi Amberly,
I can't tell you how much I have enjoyed your(and David's)blog. It has made me feel like I'm there with you. Even tho I have said that I'm done with beach vacations, your description of No.7 has made me want to be on a beach again. Enjoy your remaining weeks in India and have a happy Passover.
Love, Mom
Posted by: Dolores | April 11, 2006 at 12:25 PM
I can't believe you got to see an elephant on the beach, when all I got to see in Cambodia was wild elephant dung!
See you soon.
C
Posted by: Charles | April 16, 2006 at 03:14 PM